The BIGGEST thing you can do to save your stuff is this: GET IT DRIED THE FUCK OUT. Acetone works too but can melt some plastics and ruin paint and rubbing alcohol can be gotten at any local grocery store. It's an insanely good product. Scrub the affected area to remove all the stains. Flux wash is the answer for washing the PCBs. This netted us about 2 to 3 more volts on the collectors. Blaster Products "Corrosion Stop" - http://www.blasterchemical.com/images/msds/CSP-Aerosol-nov06.pdf [blasterchemical.com] Especially those not it the bigger chips, because these will not have been affected that much by corruption. Flux is corrosive and it's been sitting on your circuit boards since they came out the pick-n-place. Clean with water and a detergent. The devices that simply have circuit boards and cables can possiblly be saved by disassembly followed by thourough cleaning (I wouldn't worry too much about the cleaning agent damaging the boards, PCB assemblies are pretty tough generally just get the boards rinsed and dried thouroughly before reassembly). This chemical can has 3 power settings and setting it to HI with the straw will push the residual water out. So here's my little PSA: Even if you don't live somewhere that can really "flood" in a traditional sense, buy flood insurance if you have a basement. But I usually just go out, clear the sewer with a rake and that's the end of it. A typical example would be full immersion of a digital camera, a rather challenging project due to it's. pumps just aren't sized for that kind of freak event. Make sure your electronics is completely dried out, then power it up outside your house on Halloween night. I've done this too, but not as much as the parent, I'm sure! Really its all about washing off water deposits and residual mold spores. Copyright © 2020 SlashdotMedia. I wouldn't clean them (wipe down the outside with a damp sponge, but nothing more aggressive) -- just hope for the best and expect them to have died. Pour a very small amount of rubbing alcohol onto a clean cloth. Solid-state stuff, if cleaned properly (i.e., with copious amounts of distilled water), should work just fine after *brief* immersion, as long as no power was applied (which is not the same as being turned off). not the answer you want but its the smart answer. It needs more than just water to grow. So when I found that the sandwich grade ziplock bag had not been the water proof cell phone protector that I had expected, the cell phone went into the warm oven, which took less than 30 seconds to set up, and I went on to other activities. If you can't borrow one, I'd just take some warm soapy water and a toothbrush and work at it by hand (and then repeat the distilled water and alcohol rinses to remove any soap and such). Let me add to these other ideas a product named "Corrosion Block" (for the marine industry) and/or "ACF 50" (for aviation). You don't need to kill the mold, just get most of it off. Comparing the MSDS Sheets, they appear to be different compounds: Lear Corp's "Corrosion Block" - http://www.nocorrosion.com/MSDS-1.pdf [nocorrosion.com]. And file an insurance claim. We dug it up, took it home, hosed it out, threw it in the pool, etc.. Before beginning the mold removal process, you must first take a few precautionary measures. BTW, one quart freezer grade ziplock bags cost little more than the sandwich bags, and are a lot more effective at waterproofing cell phones, wallets, small cameras, and similar items that the novice kayaker should worry about. 7. Trademarks property of their respective owners. Simulation of the Mars Science Laboratory Sky Crane. Actually, you want to do a little more than "completely". The surface tension should keep it out. I've had a lot of luck cleaning mold and other contaminants from electronics by disassembling the item as completely as possible, cleaning each peace with a gentle liquid cleanser of some kind (i.e. You should have done this immediately: too much corrosion may already have occured. Your Walgreens sells good beer? Area rugs should be HEPA vacuumed and cleaned either via hot water extraction or immersion cleaning. (I rather imagine that most of the boater's stuff has to ALREADY be mold resistant, which does help stop the spread of mold.). In that vein, stop at the drugstore and get a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Good luck. 40 min on one side (including getting it up to temp) and 20 min upside down is probably enough to stop further mold growth. But too strong a solvent and you'll eat into the PCB and any components that aren't up to it. Remember, nothing oil based like acetone or gasoline. A few people mentioned bleach being bad. They are good for cleaning any contacts. Look for damage or corrosion. I let it sit for a day, and plugged it in. > With modern equipment I'd be a bit more gentle... Actually, we remove mold from electronics all the time. Brush everything possible with a natural fiber brush (not a plastic bristled brush that may dissolve.) So unless you can point me to a source that says otherwise, rubbing alcohol is fine. I realize that it may be painfully expensive, but if you suspect any mold on anything, you should either quarantine it until you can thoroughly kill it or just trash it. P.S. Disclaimer: I've never cleaned a full system, just components like keyboards, mice, and a portable CD player. It's somewhat like WD-40. Fortunately in my case, the only loss was some 20-year-old carpet. 5-10 minutes should be plenty. Many people who don't live in an area where floods are a real likelihood don't buy the extra flood insurance, which is probably the case here ("Since we are not in a flood plain, our insurance for this is woefully inadequate."). Use plenty -- scrub with a toothbrush at this point to remove anything stubborn. All the real car lovers do it.) Kill 99.9% of it, and that last 0.1% will grow a hundredfold while you recover from the effort of killing 99.9% of it. Most electronic components will not be damaged by water. Kids will appreciate the sparks and smoke. It still works today - 20 years later. Simply repeat the dunking in alcohol a couple of times and the blowing out with a fan. So check your heat sensors. Before breakfast was over, I heard something strange and thought one of our gutters was overflowing. Some coatings are natural shellac which is alcohol soluble. restoration and cleaning services in South Bend, How to Effectively Leak Proof your Home to Prevent Water Damage, 5 Steps to Recover from Basement Flooding, How to Remove Cigarette Odors from Furniture Upholstery, The Benefits of Air Duct Cleaning: Saves Money on Maintenance and Energy Bills. According to grandpa, he just hosed it out with a garden hose and left it to dry. So I definitely recommend the mild bleach solution. SERVPRO Franchise Professionals specialize in restoring contents damaged by fire, water, or mold. You recognize it by the large capacitors and small heat sinks an between them. Rub away all remaining visible mold from the electronic product. It would just get hotter because of the additional resistance.
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